Brightwork & Fittings

(Woodwork, Fittings, And all of the Nuts & Bolts!)

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New Floorboards New Seats

New Splashguards

With the cold weather keeping me from working on the boat hull, I turned to working on the brightwork and fittings.  The old floorboards, seats, splashguards, tiller and transom trim cap were weathered so badly, that replacement was the only option.

I acquired enough walnut boards from a family member to completely replace all of the brightwork.  I had a woodshop plane down the boards to the correct dimensions, and we just made the necessary amount of wood needed for the job.

The finished brightwork received two coats of WEST System epoxy as a waterproof coating.  Still needing UV protection, I applied two coats of varnish to make it complete.

New Tiller/Extension

I used the old tiller as a template, and cut a new one from a 1" thick blank of walnut.

I buried a stainess steel bolt to reinforce the stress points on the tiller, then filled the hole with a glue and sawdust mixture.

The extension I made from a 30" piece of  1/2" aluminum tubing.  The knob is a lawn  tractor knob (with the threads ground out) that was attached with a small roll pin.  The swivel is a universal extension mount that was riveted to the tubing.

Total price of this self-made extension - $17.00!  (I got the swivel from the discount bin for $14, the knob for $3, and the tubing for free!)

New Tiller Reinforcement

New Tiller Extension (Knob)

New Tiller Extension (Swivel)

Floorboards (Old & New)

Old Floorboards

Here you can see the condition of the old brightwork.  It was exposed to the elements for years, and most of the varnish was gone.

The old floorboards had chunks missing, and all of the nailheads were rusted.  On the new floorboards, I screwed everything together from the bottom, so nothing showed from the top.

Old Floorboard CU
Masthead Off Mast Masthead
The masthead sheaves were frozen in the masthead.  They were made of phenol resin designed for a wire halyard.

The masthead and sheaves were removed, and new sheaves will be installed because I have switched to all rope halyards.  The new sheaves are made for carrying a 1/4" line.

Masthead Halves
Masthead Sheaves
I had a local plastic shop fabricate new masthead sheaves out of Nylontron - a nylon/graphite compound that is self-lubricating.
Diameter: 1 1/16"
Width: 3/8"
Bore: 1/4"

When I started, the mastjack was black and the disc was frozen in place.  After soaking it in penetrating oil, and having no luck in freeing the disc, I resorted to clamping the mastjack into a vise, and using brute force with channel lock pliers.  The disc came free!

After polishing and oiling, the disc spins freely now.  The mastjack is actually made out of solid bronze, and is too interesting to cover up with the mast!

Having the adjustable disc will let me tune the rig and adjust the mast rake.  This will let me fine tune the sail shape for optimum performance.

Ceterboard Winch Front Centerboard Winch Back

The original centerboard winch was in good condition, but I located one in better shape, with a ramped spindle (to keep the line centered).  It is made of phenol resin, and is a common O'Day item. A friend has the same set up on his Mariner. The centerboard winch is located on the keel of the cockpit aft of the bow floatation tank, and forward of the centerboard trunk.  It gives about a 6:1 mechanical advantage when raising and lowering the centerboard.  A large diameter line turns the large drum, which in turn turns the shaft connected to the centerboard pennant.  Originally there was 1/8" stainless steel wire, but I have replaced it with 3mm Vectran line.  The Vectran is actually a stronger way to go!

CB Pulleys
The centerboard pulleys were originally made of bronze.  They were very wobblely on the clevis pins, so I decided to replace them with Delrin.  I had the same shop that turned the masthead sheaves fabricate these.

Being that I had gotten away from the wire pennant, I thought this solution would work better.


Traveller Swage

The traveller is a fixed stainless steel wire swaged in to an aluminum end fitting on either side of the transom.  A 90 degree opposed double block set-up is utilized.  The smaller block runs along the wire, and the mainsheet is run through the larger block.

While this traveller is not adjustable, there are ways to pull the traveller to windward using a line attached to the traveller blocks, then run through blocks on the transom, leading to the cockpit.  I will try to get more information on this set-up in the future.

I also plan to replace the stainless steel wire with the same Vectran line used for the centerboard pennant.

Cleats Rubrail End Caps

When I bought the boat, all of the cleats were in poor shape - there were paint splatters and discoloration on all of the parts.  I removed all of the parts, and polished them.  It turns out that all of the fittings were made from high quality metals with a bright finish.  There were some unusual horn cleats with a jam cleat built into the base.  The small ones were located on the gunwales, about midship.  The skene chock on the right is for the anchor line, as is the large horn cleat.    The middle cleat is for the halyards.  The large cleat with the turned down horn was located on the centerboard trunk - used for the main sheet.  The two aluminum pieces above are used to cap the aft ends of the vinyl rubrail.

Floor Drain Hole Drain Plug (Floor)

In the cockpit floor there was a drain hole with no plug.  At the local hardware store, I picked up a 1/4" square head plumbing plug which works great.  I also understand that an oil drain plug from an auto parts store will also work.  Some Javelin owners mill a slot in the top to use a coin to open and close the plug.

This drain hole is used for draining out the cockpit while trailering or for winter storage.  It is NOT used while underway on the water!  The raised hole also makes it difficult to totally drain the cockpit, but if the boat was to capsize, it really comes in handy when you haul the boat out onto the trailer!

Boom Vang Strap Gooseneck

The boom fittings are shown in these pictures.

Above is the boom vang strap.  I had come upon a deal on a boom vang from a Laser which had a "key" to attach to the boom, so I bought the Laser vang strap.  It has a keyhole to accept the key on the upper block.

The gooseneck is the original from the boat.  The downhaul loop can be seen at the bottom.

I converted to a 2:1 outhaul system - I attached a microblock with becket to the tang on the boom end using a shackle.  Another block is installed on the mainsail clew.  After running the 3/16" line through the blocks,  It comes forward to a fairleaded clam cleat that is mounted on the bottom of the boom, just aft of the boom vang strap.  Now adjustments can be made from the cockpit by just pulling on the line at the cleat.
Boom Outhaul Block
Outhaul Setup Boom Outhaul Cleat
Whisker Pole Overall

Whisker Pole Hook

Whisker Pole Gate CU

This is an idea I borrowed from a friend for a whisker pole - a boat hook!

I mounted a whisker pole end fitting into the end of my boat hook.  This now becomes a 2 in 1 pole.

The boat hook portion can still be used when launching & retrieving the boat, but under way, it is the whisker pole!

To use: the point on the hook is slipped into a bowline tied on the jib sheets at the jib clew.  The jib can then be poled out for downwind runs.  The gate on the end of the fitting (at the handle) is then attached to a mast pad.  A lanyard is attached to the gate so you can open the fitting when it is time to take the pole down.

While underway:  The pole is stored vertically against the forward edge of the mast (making sure to point the hook backwards!).  The gate is fastened to the mast pad, and the upper end is clipped into a U-shaped clip, the type used to secure a boat hook.

There you have it!  A double-duty pole that really earns it's keep!

Lower Rudder Port Lower Rudder SB

While prepping the rudder for sanding, I filled the gouges with fairing compound.  I also decided to put a slight taper on the blade.  The factory edges were very blunt, and did not have much shape to them.  I was informed that this modification was okay, as Javelins race with replacement wooden rudders.
(This rudder assembly is actually the same as the Daysailor's rudder assembly.)

CB Cap

CB Cap Bottom

CB Cap Bottom CU

I decided to add a centerboard trunk cap to mount all of my sheet fittings.  Boats such as Tanzers and Flying Scots both have similar caps.

I ended up using the same walnut as the rest of the woodwork to match.  I used a flat piece as the top, and some 3/4" x 3/4" pieces to make the bottom edges.  I followed the contours of the centerboard trunk so there would be no play.

I utilized the existing holes in the top of the trunk where the cleats were mounted originally to mount the cap.  I also added a larger screw to the aft end to secure the cap.

I installed stainless steel tee-nuts to the underside.  These are embedded threads for mounting hardware.  The nice thing is you can removed the fittings, and the threads stay in place.

As with all of the wood, I epoxied the pieces first, then I added the varnish later.

I had obtained a custom made tabernacle for the Javelin from Dan Reiber (see "Links" page).  A tabernacle is a device that lets you hinge the mast so it is easier to step.  To install a tabernacle, the mast must be cut, and a section of the height of the tabernacle must be removed.

This particular tabernacle is designed to give you a smooth surface on the mast, so the jib won't get hung up during a tack.  The long rod slides up into the boltrope slot inside the mast, and the upper mast is stepped up onto the fitting.

On the top view you can see the shoulders that will be inside of the mast.  You can also install a plate between the pieces that can then be bolted to the deck to really solidify things (the mast stump would then stay in place in the boat).

(See "Completed Boat" to see installed)

Tabernacle Side

Tabernacle Top

Motor Mount Motor Mount Block

I took the motor mount that was originally on the boat and had it polished.  I replaced the rotted wood with polyethylene.  This plastic won't rot, is waterproof, and looks so much better.  I bought the block at a local plastics shop for about $6. The block was tapped and screwed to the mount from the backside.

Headstay Adjuster
The headstay adjuster that came with the boat is actually a nice fitting.  The cover over the turnbuckle swings up, becoming a handle.  After adjusting, the handle is closed, keeping the turnbuckle in place.

The shrouds use standard closed turnbuckles.  The standing rigging had been upgraded to 1/8".

This is a piece of gear I acquired, but do not use.

It is called a "reefing claw" and it is used when the sail is able to be reefed by turning the boom.

The Javelin has the ability to reef the sail on the boom.  Being that you lose the ability to attach the main sheet block mid-boom, this device is used to slide down over the sail and boom, and then the main sheet block can be attached to the hole in the bottom of the claw.

Reefing Claw