Hull Preparation

Sanding & Painting

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With the transom repair behind me, I removed the boat from the trailer (removing the centerboard first to get rid of some weight).  I had help from a friend (or two) to manuever the boat upside down on a pair of sawhorses.  Once again, I did not have the luxury of an inside work area, so I had to time my restoration with good weather.  The first course of action was to sand the hull . . .
Aft View
I had to get rid of the bottom paint (which is toxic to breath), and the prior bad paint job.  I used a random orbital sander, goggles, a mask for my mouth, and a lot of sandpaper and patience!

I was concerned about the waterline stripe, but I found the original one molded into the gelcoat when I got down far enough.

I sanded the hull until the only color left was white.  I filled in any dings, dents, pinholes, etc. with the fairing mixture.  O'Day had built in some bulges, where interior bracing met the hull, that I could not do much about.  Everything I could correct, I did.
Hole 1st
After much grinding, the "mystery hole" was finally revealed!  The crack had been under the molded seat, just where the seat was tabbed into the floor.  A hairline crack continued through the underlying layers, so the repair extended beyond the cracks I could see.  I also wedged a small clip in the opening to get the fiberglass to move downward, so I can build the repair up.
Hole 3rd Hole 2nd
The area around the hole was sanded down to clean, white gelcoat.  The upper left picture shows the crack ready for the repair.  The surrounding areas were cleaned with a dewaxer solvent prior to the application of epoxy.

The upper right picture shows the layers of fiberglass cloth.  I started with fiberglass mat, cut just larger than the crack.  The next layers were fiberglass cloth (the same cloth used from the transom repair), built up in sucessive layers, each layer being larger than the previous layer.  The final layer covered the entire crack, with ample overlap.  I also put as many layers necesary to build up the repair to the surrounding areas.  Being that I had direct sunlight on the hull, I did all of the layering at the same time.  It is VERY important that the cloth is fully saturated with the epoxy, or air bubbles and/or pockets can form, making a weak repair.

Hole 4th
After the repair was fully cured (I waited about 2 or 3 days), I sanded any high, or rough spots.  I then used the fairing mixture to bring the repair even with the rest of the bottom surface.  The fairing also extended beyond this new repair to feather it into the existing surfaces.  From here it was a matter of letting everything cure, sanding once again, and final fairing and sanding.
Hole 5th Primed Hull
Above are the pictures of the hull after primer was applied with a roller.  As you can see, it is now hard to even see the repair!  Also, the whole boat is starting to look like something!

As an aside, prior to applying the primer coat, I masked off the waterline, and applied a couple of coats of epoxy to build it up, so it could be found later.  Some color from the original line still shown through the primer, and even the paint when I did my sanding.

CB Spacers
In between work on the hull, I also sanded the old galvanized centerboard.  I used a special primer that converts the rust to a primer.  I faired any dimples or low spots with the fairing mixture, sanded, and applied a black finish on the centerboard.

I also had the deformed pivot hole drilled out to 1", and had a Delrin bushing made out of 1" round stock with a 1/2" hole bored through it's center.  I took a measurement from inside the centerboard trunk, and cut the bushing to that length.  This bushing was epoxied into place, along with some Delrin spacers.  the board received 5 coats of epoxy, encasing the bushing and spacers.

Here is the final result after three coats of Petit's EasyPoxy Sunflower Yellow one-part polyurethane paint!

I applied the paint with a roller, and had a friend "tip" the paint (follow behind with a dry brush, flattening out the paint).  I used tweezers to pick off the "kamikazi bugs" that landed on the wet paint.

Painted Hull
Transom Drain
With everything finished, I drilled through my nice new transom and installed a drain hole.  I inserted a brass sleeve that accepts a drain plug.

I made sure to epoxy the end grain of the wood in the core, and also bed the sleeve in place.  After all of this, I do not want to deal with another rotted transom!

Once again, this is a documentation of my restoration.  This site is for informational purposes only.  I am not an expert, and I cannot be held liable for someone else's repairs!