OPERATING AND RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
CAUTION: Do not begin operating or rigging your boat until you have read all of the following operating and rigging instructions.
THE MAST, THE STAYS, AND ALL OTHER PARTS of O'Day sailboats under 26 feet, following the general boating industry practice, ARE NOT GROUNDED. SHOULD YOUR O'DAY SAILBOAT BE STRUCK BY LIGHTNING OR MAKE CONTACT WITH ELECTRICAL POWER LINES, SUBSTANTIAL INJURY MAY RESULT TO THE OCCUPANTS. We recommend that if you wish to be protected from injury resulting from lightning that you have your 0'Day sailboat grounded by an authorized O'Day dealer or Other reputable boat yard in the manner recommended by the American Boat and Yacht Council of New York, New York. Under all circumstances, whether or not your boat is grounded, when lightning is present in your boating area, contact with the mast, the stays, and other metallic objects should be avoided.
WE DO NOT BELIEVE THAT GROUNDING WOULD BE EFFECTIVE TO AVOID INJURY TO OCCUPANTS OF YOUR SAILBOAT, IF CONTACT IS MADE WITH ELECTRICAL POWER LINES.
When operating your sailboat on waterways, charts should be regularly consulted, not only for normal hazards, but also for the presence of electrical power lines. In addition, a lookout should be maintained for the presence of overhead electrical power lines, particularly during launching and hauling.
The following is a list of parts that come with your boat. (Standard equipment)
1 A mast, halyards, stays, two spreaders.
2 A boom with block, mainsheet, jib sheet, outhaul line, and downhaul line.
3. Flat package containing rudder, tiller, and boom crutch.
4. Sail bag containing mainsail and jib. The battens for the mainsail and the sail numbers (with installation instructions) will be found in the sailbag.
Suggested Equipment for Rigging Boat
You will need a medium-sized screwdriver, a pair of pliers, a small roll of tape.
Optional Equipment-see current boat catalog on what is available-come complete with installation instructions where applicable.
The first step is to remove the two spreaders, which are taped on to the mast. You will notice that these two aluminum tubes, or spreaders, have a hole in one end and a Slot in the other end. These spreaders should be fastened with clevis pins on to the fittings on either side of the mast about one third up. Open ends of cotter pins after they are in place and tape.
Into each of the slots place a sidestay. A small wire will be found in a hole at the slotted end of the spreader. Wrap the wire around the stay as many times as possible which prevents the stay from jumping out of the slot. This area should then be covered with tape to protect the mainsail. See fig. 1.
Before you step the mast, tie a figure 8 knot in the end of each halyard to prevent them from getting out of reach, then pull the shackles on the other end of the halyards to the foot of the mast. This puts the shackles within reach when the mast is stepped.
Stepping The Mast
We recommend that you get assistance in stepping the mast until you are familiar with the stepping procedure. A "tabernacle" is a great help as it permits easy one-person stepping. This is a slotted mast and the slot side faces the stern when in position to be stepped.
The mast is stepped through an opening in the deck-be sure the base of the mast is properly seated on mast step. Once accomplished, the mast will stay in place.
Now fasten the sidestays to the chainplates on either side of the hull. Next fasten headstay to stemhead fitting. Turnbuckles, which permit adjustment, are provided on the lower ends of all stays. See fig. 2 & 3.
After all stays are attached, take the slack out of the rigging by tightening all stays taut, but no more than hand tight. If you find a stay too long or too short, check for proper length or possibly the mast step may have been positioned incorrectly. In the latter case, remove mast and then mast step. Next, step mast on to unattached mast step (be sure to hold mast at all times) and attach Stays. When properly set up, mark new position of mast step, finally, unstep mast and screw step in place.
CAUTION! It is very important that you do not tighten the stays too much, as this can cause damage to the hull.
CAUTION! Be sure all lock nuts are securely tightened by pliers or a wrench and then taped to prevent loosening.
Attaching Boom To Mast
Slip the gooseneck, which is on the forward end of the boom, into the slot on the mast and rest the other end in the boom crutch. See photo 4.
Mainsheet (1974 1/2 Model Year Change)
Take the free end of the mainsheet, thread it through the upper sheave on the block on the aft end of the centerboard trunk, and bring it up through the block on the boom, then back down to the bottom sheave and through the jam cleat. This new type of mainsheet arrangement (as of January, 1974) frees up the cockpit considerably in that the lower end is attached to a stainless steel plate on the aft end of the centerboard trunk instead of the blocks on the port and starboard side of the stern of the boat. Tie a figure eight knot in the end of the mainsheet so you won't lose it.
To Attach Rudder
On the Stern of the boat are two gudgeons into which are inserted the pintles on the rudder. Note that on the front of the rudder head between the pintles there is a rudder stop, which prevents the rudder from accidentally coming loose. The top of the rudder stop with the rudder in place should rest under gudgeon-if adjustment is necessary, remove the stop and bend so it will bear against pintle. The rudder blade will pivot back, should you hit an underwater object, but the blade should be in the down position while sailing If the blade works up while sailing, weather helm will increase thereby increasing drag and steering will become less efficient. Tighten the blade pivot bolt or wedge blade in down position. See fig. 5.
Should the centerboard bolt leak, it can be tightened-if leaking still persists, re-seal with a substance like silicone sealant. Access to C/B bolt is via the hand hole covers located in the cockpit floor opposite C/B trunk.
The position of the C/B can be changed by adjusting the C/B pendant - see figure 6 - while sailing the amount of helm (pressure) on the tiller can be changed by C/B position; i.e., raise to decrease - lower to increase. It is not recommended to raise more than halfway, as this would cause too much sideslip.
To Hoist or Raise Mainsail
To raise the mainsail, insert battens and then starting near the gooseneck, feed the foot of the sail, clew first into the slot on the boom. The pin in the gooseneck slips through the tack of the sail to hold it in place. Draw the foot of the sail out along the boom until the foot is tight. The outhaul line should be attached to the clew of the sail, then passed through hole in fitting on end of boom, then cleated. The cleat is located approximately 2/3 of the way up on the right side of the boom. The cleat is located here to permit the crew to change the tension on the foot of the sail while sailing. A "block-action outhaul" is a help here as it greatly reduces the friction on the outhaul line. Next, fasten the main halyard to the head of the mainsail and feed the luff of the sail into the mast slot cutout. Hoist the sail fully and cleat it. Tighten the luff of the sail by pulling down on the line attached to the gooseneck and then cleat it to the downhaul cleat. The position of this cleat on the mast may be changed by loosening the two screws, moving cleat, and then tightening screws again. See fig. 7.
To Hoist Jib
Fasten all the jib snaps on the luff of the jib to the headstay and attach fitting on the tack to the stemhead fitting. The jib halyard is then attached to the head of the jib just as the mainsail was. Tie the center of the jib sheet to the clew of the jib and run them aft on either side of the mast inside the stay wires, through the cam action jam cleats mounted on either side of the cockpit. Tie a figure 8 knot in the end of each sheet in order to prevent it from getting loose. See figs. 8 & 9.
The jib sheet cam action jam cleat on track is adjustable fore and aft--position it so that the tension on the foot and leech of the sail is about equal. Move lead forward to help stop leech flutter and aft to help stop foot flutter.
The transom is reinforced so an engine can be clamped directly to it on either side of rudder. We recommend using pad or transom plates, which will prevent engine loss, and scarring of fiberglass. Recommended horsepower, 8 maximum, long shaft.
A "roller reefing claw" is necessary. Your mainsail can be easily reefed, as the boat is equipped with a spring-loaded gooseneck. First, remove the block in the middle of the boom. Second, release the main halyard but keep it under tension. Third, pull the boom back from the mast so that you can turn it. Fourth, roll the boom either way as you or your crew lets off slowly on the halyard. The sail will roll on the boom. Fifth, when you have rolled about 5 or 6 times, you will have reduced your sail area by 1/3. Experience will teach you how much to reef under various conditions. Sixth, lock your boom back into place by letting the boom go forward and tighten up halyard. When reefed, the boom block for the mainsheet is attached to the roller-reefing claw. To shake out, just reverse procedure.
Hand Hole Covers
Are located in cockpit floor on either side of C/B trunk. Remove prior to sailing to check for any accumulation of water in the hull and deck compartment. Pump out and check for possible leaks. Do not sail with an excess amount of water in bilge as this water will shift from side to side while tacking and the weight of the water will effect trim and could even cause a capsize.
There is sufficient flotation material (in block form) located between the hull and deck to support the crew and normal gear, should the hull and deck compartment take on water through a leak or hull puncture. Be sure to check these areas prior to sailing and pump out any water.
Water can enter through the mast hole in deck. You might consider sealing any voids between mast and deck hole with silicone sealant, or a rubber mast boot taped or lashed to the mast.
On the outside of the transom is a plug used to drain the compartment between the hull and deck. This should only be opened while boat is beached or on trailer.
Your boat is equipped with an automatic bailer located in the transom well. This enables spray or rain water to be siphoned out while under way or at mooring with boat at rest. A check ball and rubber seal prevent water from entering while plunger is up in the open position. To open, pull knurled plunger up firmly. To close, reverse process.
CAUTION! The DePersia bailer is of aluminum and the threads should be kept well lubricated to prevent corrosion. In salt water, this should be done at least twice a season.
Should the boat capsize while sailing, there are a number of steps that should be taken to insure the safety of the boat and crew.
1. Make sure that each occupant has a life jacket on.
2. To prevent the boat from turning turtle (upside down), which can occur, put some weight on the centerboard which will help to right the boat.
3. Take down the sails, if sailing under severe conditions.
4. Bail out any water in cockpit.
5. Remember your boat is equipped with flotation material and it can act as a life preserver.