Preparation of the deck & cockpit

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After sanding, the Javelin starts to show its true colors! A very popular '60's color!

I sanded down to the old gelcoat level, trying not to go too deep on the non-skid areas.  The non-skid is getting redone, but I still need to see some of the old texture.

(I will not keep this two-tone scheme!)

This is a closer look at the non-skid on the foredeck.

I used combinations of a drill-mounted wire brush, random-orbital pad sander, and plain sandpaper with lots of elbow grease.

I tried to feather the edges of the old tenacious paint into the gelcoat level.

The white paint is the prior paint job.



There was extensive crazing on the old gelcoat.  The worst was around the mast hole in the deck.  It was faint on most surfaces, but all of the raised ridges were in very bad shape.

The goal is to fair all of the cracks with epoxy/microballon mixture, and sand smooth.


When the boat first arrived, there was a lot of water in the bow floatation tank upon removing the drain plug.  It shot out under pressure, like a hose!  After internal inspection, I found just the bottom layer of syrofoam was bad, so it was replaced.  (Extra pieces can be seen in the hole). 
After painting, a 6" inspection plate will be installed.  Based on the condition of this tank, I decided not to open the seat floatation tanks.  (All tanks have air dried over the past year).

Fairing Foredeck SB Fairing Foredeck Port

Here are shots of the deck faired with the epoxy/microballoon mixture.  I left the old non-skid areas (or what was left of them) alone, as I will be restoring a non-skid texture during the painting process.  All gouges and chips were faired smooth.

Under Foredeck Forward Rib

Being that the fordeck was showing some stress related cracking, I reinforced the underside of the deck.  The white ribs are the originals, and the black ones are the new ones.  I opted to run the rear ones diagonal to spread the load in those sections.

After sanding away the old paint, I glued halves of 3/4" foam pipe insulation to the deck to act as a form for the rib.  I then fiberglassed alternate layers of roving mat and cloth (2 each starting with the mat, ending with the cloth).

These reinforcing ribs will make the top of the deck stiffer, making walking on it a bit safer on the boat.  Being under the deck, they are not seen, and will be painted to further blend them in.

Aft Rib


Foredeck Peak
After 2 coats of primer, I was ready for the paint.  I masked off the non skid areas, and painted 3 coats of semi-gloss white paint.

The fairing and prep work really paid off! The finish was fabulous.  I had learned from painting the lower hull that a bit more thinner really lets the paint flow out smooth.

Being the areas were small, I used only a brush to apply the paint.

Non Skid Bow High
I had decided last minute to use some yellow paint for the non-skid areas.  This would not only give me a two-tone effect, but also cut down glare coming off of the foredeck.

I added a fine non-skid additive, the type used for around pools.  It was just enough grip without being rough on the skin.  I painted two coats, each with a small amount of non-skid.

The results were better than I hoped for!

Non Skid SB

Finished Foredeck Above Finished Foredeck Bow

Here is the finished two-tone effect.  The non skid patterns made for interesting shapes on the foredeck.  The final non-skid areas have a nice grip, but they are not rough, like sandpaper!  I also realized that this is probably the only two-toned Javelin out there.

Cargo Net
Under the deck I installed a cargo net that I found at a kayaking store.  It is actually from a Saturn station wagon!

The net is for storing all of my light gear - fenders, collapsible paddle, and bailer.  This keeps the shelf free for larger items, like the anchor and cooler.

With the painting completed, I now installed the new rubrail.  The under-railing was in good shape, so I only needed the outer vinyl rubrail.  I had ordered 30 feet which was plenty to completely go around the boat.

The underrailing had raised edges to hold the vinyl in place, so all that was needed was to press the outer rail on.

Rubrail Port Side

Rubrail at Bow SB CU

Rubrail at Bow Port CU

Rubrail at Bow Port

The trickiest part was working the vinyl around the bow.  The trick is to pull the vinyl, keeping tension on it, while heating it with a heat gun.  The heat softens the vinyl enough to stretch it around the curve of the bow.

Once the bow is completed, the other side is a snap!  A rubber mallet was used to seat the vinyl rubrail over the under-railing.

With the rubrail in place, I attached the aluminum end caps to finish the job off.  You an also see the stem fitting attched back on the boat.  All fittings were attached with a bedding material underneath.  All bolts were backed up with stainless steel fender washers.

With the deck completed, the interior was primed and painted.  I used 2 coats of primer and two coats of paint (I would have used three, but I was running out of paint!)

When the paint was dry, the fittings started to be installed.  As always, any fitting replaced was bedded with a bedding material.

Painted Cockpit

Completed Cockpit
With the painting complete, on went the brightwork and fittings.  As seen in the picture, the cockpit looks "new" again!

The newly added centerboard trunk cap now gives me a place to mount the control cleats.

The woodwork came out so fine that I really didn't want to climb aboard and ruin it!

With the reinstallation of fittings & brightwork, I did make some modifications.

I re-routed the centerboard control line aft for better downwind control.  I also moved the mainsheet cleat forward a bit.

Most of the other items went back to their original positions.

Completed Cockpit Aft Low

Bow Shelf Edge
One of the other useful modifications I made was adding a bow shelf edge to keep gear in place.   I used the same walnut to match the rest of the boat.

Here you can also see the inspection hatch installed.

The centerboard winch set up is also visable.

CB Control Lines CB Pulley (Installed)

In these shots, you can see details of the centerboard winch system.

The line was routed to the starboard rear of the boat using a cheek block on the side of the trunk, a fairlead under the seat, and a cam cleat with fairlead at the aft end of the trunk.

The lifting line is 1/8" vectran line running over the top of the trunk over two pulleys.

CB Cam Cleat

Jib Track Jib Cleats

Mainsheet Cleat
The jib track on the coaming is the original fitting with the phenolic sheave.

The old jib cleats were replaced with new Harken cleats.  The mainsheet cleat was also replaced with a Shaeffer/Harken set-up.

The new cleats run smoother, and have a more positive bite on the lines.  These fittings aren't quite the vintage of the boat, but overall performance was increased.

Tiller with Tiller Tamer CU Tiller Tamer Cleat

With the cockpit completed, I installed my Tiller Tamer.  This is a device which lets you lock down the tiller in position while at the dock, or while underway.  This is a big help when singlehanding!
The Tamer is controlled by 1/4" line which is cleated off at the stern.  The idea is to create a 90 degree angle from the attachment point to the stern.  I used tube cleats which give me the ability to adjust the tension quickly, and to remove the tiller for trailering.

Finished Rudder
Here is a picture of the finished rudder.  O'Day used the same rudder for both the Daysailer and the Javelin.  It really has no shape to it, but it works!

It is also a kick-up type, so you can go into shallow water with the boat.

Note: Motor mount is for my trolling motor.  I replaced the wood with a polyethylene block.

Some new additions to the deck were a compass and cam cleats for the halyards.

The old horn cleats were replaced by the cam cleats to make adjustments to the halyards much quicker.

The old O'Day emblem was reinstalled to the coaming.  The combing edge trim is actually a car door edge guard!

Compass & Halyard Cleats

Spinnaker Fitting
Even though I do not have a spinnaker, I did reinstall the original spinnaker fitting to the foredeck.

I'm told that this fitting is to control the spinnaker pole.  It uses a "sister-clip" type fitting to engage to this fitting.

There was a molded seat in the deck under the fitting, so it seems to be original equipment to the boat.

Tabernacle Plate Mast with Tabernacle

The tabernacle was installed with a stainless steel plate mounted in the middle.  The plate was then bolted to the deck with the mast stump (lower section) mounted permanantly below deck.

Prior to the tabernacle installation, the mast had to be stepped through the deck hole, and dropped onto the pin on the mast step.  With the tabernacle, the mast had to be cut, and a section equal to the height of the tabernacle was removed.  The upper section of the mast is slipped onto the toggle on the tabernacle (via the bolt rope slot).  The mast can then be stepped up onto the shoulders of the tabernacle, with the headstay and shrouds secured into position to hold the mast up.

Here is the mast stump below deck.  The stump ended up being about 2 feet in length.  Careful measuring is the key to a successful tabernacle installation.

The mast step jack is no longer usable.  The plate bolted to the deck makes things more stable and strong, and the stump now acts as a compression post.

In this picture, the bail for the lower mount of the boom vang can be seen.  This was riveted to the mast using stainless steel rivets.

Mast Stump

Mast Plug
Being that the mast needed to be cut, the upper section had an openned end.  To finish it off and to make it waterproof, I inserted a plug made from glass reinforced epoxy.  I also sealed all edges with silicone.

This shot shows a good look at the cross-section of the mast.

The mast dimensions are 2 3/4" x 1  3/4".  As you can see, it is an ovalized spar.

The round slot at the bottom is for the sail bolt rope.

To keep the boom up while launching and retrieving, I added a topping lift.

A topping lift is no more than a line which goes from the top of the mast to the end of the boom, keeping up while the sail is down.  When the sail is raised, the line goes slack - the mainsail keeps the boom up at that point.

Some lifts can be adjusted with a cleat, but I have a fixed one.  I used a stainless clip which goes through the tang at the end of the boom.  The other end is attached to a clevis pin at the masthead  by means of a bowline knot.

Topping Lift

Drawer Opened Drawer

An addition I added for convenience were drawers on the port and starbord sides under the forward coaming.  These drawers are used for stowing light items such as sail ties, gloves, sunglasses, spare parts, etc.

I found sturdy plastic drawers at the local K-Mart.  The housing was screwed into the ribs under the deck.  The drawers are designed not to come out, so they work well.  To keep them closed (especially during trailering) I installed strips of Velcro to the edges.  I modeled these after the gloveboxes on the Flying Scots.