Trailer Preparation

"Getting things rolling!"

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Painted New Boards
The trailer made a trip to a friend's house, where I had some rebar welded underneath the tounge, making it straight again.  Another crossbeam was also added.

When it arrived home, the trailer was disassembled (on my patio), sanded, primed, and painted black with two coats of exterior-grade, oil-based enamel.  New bunkboards and a new submersible lighting kit were installed.

The axle sub-assembly was painted in the same manner as the trailer.

The bearings were replaced & repacked, and bearing protectors were added to the hubs.  These protectors keep the grease under pressure, so while launching, water will be kept out.  They also had the added feature of visually being able to see when new grease is needed.

The original wheels were fairly new, so they were remounted.  The old lugnuts were rusted, so these were replaced.

The square U-bolts used to attach the axle assembly were replaced - the old ones snapped off during disassembly.

Original Winch
The original winch mount was in terrible shape, and it was poorly designed.  It was made out of band steel, and pulled the boat down, rather than straight.  The old winch used wire, and the bow roller was shot.

I designed a new mount made of 2" x 2" tubular steel (to match the drawbar).  The mount would also be a forward mast crutch for trailering.  (See next section for picture.)

Here is a picture of the new winch and bow stop.  This assembly will be bolted to the winch mount post using square U-bolts.  It is also made out of 2" x 2" tubular steel.  My welding friend also assembled all of the parts for the mount.

The winch has a 1400# capacity, and uses a 2" strap rather than wire.  The V-stop is a 3" Stolz, as are all of the new keel rollers on the trailer.

Winch Mount
Post Mount
The new winch mount has feet that overhang the tounge.  They were drilled for new galvanized square U-bolts that mount from below, and are attached with washers and nylon stopnuts.

Everything looked great, but if I had it to do all over again, I might have went with 1" x 2" tubular steel to reduce the tounge weight.

I rebuilt the coupler (using a rebuild kit), had safety chains welded on, and installed a box to contain the wiring harness when not in use.

Since this picture was taken, I have switched to a straight hitch drawbar, lowering the front of the trailer about 3".

When the axle was reinstalled to the frame, I added plastic mudflaps to protect the bottom of the boat from road debris.

These flaps were made by cutting down car mudflaps, and attaching them to the trailer with stainless steel nuts and bolts.  I used plastic mudflaps, but rubber ones would work just as well.